So I got this recommended to me by friend I made out in the coastal waters of central California. This being my new home. While we both sat atop our surfboards watch the horizon, waiting for the next waves to roll in.
It was a very quick listen for me because I couldn’t wait to hear what was next in it. One guys surf journey along the central coast of California, the book follows the authors experience a little further north from me in Santa Cruz the surfing Mecca.
As I have recently taken up surfing I was listening for some helpful and practical tips which I found in abundance!
But even for a non surfer I feel the book will resonate with people for the philosophical side of the story that’s told. Of a search for meaning in the blue ocean.
Did scare me somewhat the info on sharks about how close to getting bitten I could be everytime I paddle out, but so far hasn’t stopped me, so I’ll just keep hoping I stay lucky.
The book explains what waves are, how they are formed and what the perfect conditions are for surfers. I found it was great to explain a lot of surfing lingo I am trying to learn as a third language at the moment.
This book is definitely worth a listen if you have an interesting in anything to do with the ocean or surfing especially! Or if you are travelling in California looking for something fun to do!
Have you read or listened to the book? If so let me know in the comments what did you think? Have any cool surf stories or spots to check out let me know!







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